Climbing Cam Sizes. The thumb loop makes these cams easier to place when you're

The thumb loop makes these cams easier to place when you're pumped and give you something soft to gnaw on if you have to hold the cam in your mouth. Jan 12, 2014 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. 3mm. Put another way, if you accidentally grab a cam that is the wrong size off your harness, it may still fit in the crack, and the cams allow a bit of forgiveness in selection. A cornerstone of climbing since 1987, the Camalot C4 is the standard for trad climbing. Having a tiny cam you can rely on to protect otherwise unprotectable sections of rock can make the difference Jan 12, 2026 · Totem Cam, the state-of-the-art cam for climbing. Top quality, great selection and expert advice you can trust. Helpful Cam Size Comparison Chart climbingtechniques. Sep 30, 2015 · They are a dual axle design, giving a greater 'range', meaning that when you squeeze the trigger the cams actually cover a greater spread of sizes, which on the crag means that each cam will fit in a wider range of sizes of crack. I was trying to compare cam sizes and found this handy online tool. 89" Ultralight TCUs are for narrow, tricky, hard to protect thin cracks. Be careful to make sure it is talking about cam sizes and not inches. Jan 30, 2018 · Free Climbing These cams are great for free climbing. Finding the best climbing cam is a process, but below are a few of the highest rated cams available. Jul 15, 2021 · With all the climbing cams on the market its difficult to know which ones to buy. 34" to 1. Compared to first and second generation camming devices, modern day cams have come a long way and today there are many fine cams to choose from when building a rack. 32" Ultralight Power Cams are for mid range crack sizes or for splitter cracks in desert sandstone, granite or colu Learn about the two main types of active climbing protecction (pro) including the ubiquitous cams and the less common spring-loaded wedges. Jul 15, 2021 · With all the climbing cams on the market its difficult to know which ones to buy. Other climbing cam sets include Black Diamond C4 Camalots, Totem Cams, and Metolius Ultralight Master Cams. The six colour-coded units cover placements from 7. When these were first released, they were the only dual axle cam available. Sep 8, 2020 · Micro cams are among the most useful pieces of gear on a trad climber's rack. I found other cam size comparison charts unsatisfactory, so I made my own in google sheets to share. The merits of having more cams or fewer cams that cover a wider range of placements are dependent on what style of climbing you're doing. 5 to 3 and either metolius mastercams or TCUs for the smaller sizes (or aliens if you're rich). 31 inches. The strength, durability, and grip of these little climbing tools will be the difference between having a safe experience and a dangerous one. 4 – 28. 5 up to gold #2, following the same colors and sizing as Black Diamond Camalots. May 27, 2013 · In reply to antmorgan1991: Get micros and smaller cams first, most people have sizes 1, 2, 3 so start with something that's more likely to complement the person you climb with's rack. Unbeatable hold and security for your next climb! Tried & tested. 3 to 4, some C3s, and a blue X4 (always forget the number) in addition to tricams and nuts. Now, many other brands also sell a dual axle design, all of which follow the same general color and size range that the C4’s first pioneered. They feature the same size and color scheme as the Camalots, and the same double axle design and camming range. Searching for new cams or piecing together a rack with a new climbing partner can feel like an overwhelming task at times, this comparison chart aims to make that easier. Because of the wide range of cams and their range of function, for simplicity, we will focus on general-purpose cams, picking our choices from the large/medium and small range. All Black Diamond SLCDs have single stems and offset cam axes. The Wild Country brand ensures quality and durability, making them a reliable choice for outdoor enthusiasts looking to explore the great outdoors through climbing. If you are setting up Top Ropes (for the pedantic amongst you, Bottom Ropes) then use nuts & Hex's instead of Cams. They come in six sizes, ranging from a purple one-inch piece (they follow the same color scheme as Black Diamond cams), down to an incredibly tiny 7. Well tested by DMM sponsored superstars attempting to onsight Once Upon a Time in the South West (E9) - two size 1’s (green) in a horizontal break! Moved Permanently The document has moved here. Ultralight Master Cams are for general all around free climbing with small to medium crack sizes. I have a set of BD C4 cams . You can find a cam size comparison chart in our How to Build your First Trad Rack guide. Oct 14, 2025 · From aerospace physics to real rock: the definitive cam guide with lab-tested data and pro placement rules. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Jan 3, 2025 · Find the best Totem climbing cams for your next adventure! Our buyer's guide reviews the top 5, helping you choose the perfect fit. Additionally, be careful with the age of the description. Because cams depend on this friction, only place them in clean, dry cracks. Dec 26, 2005 · Buying cams is the most difficult choice you'll make with climbing gear. Nov 6, 2018 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Apr 16, 2010 · That said, usually a climbing cam with a flexible stem and narrow head will work in a Tricam placement. Jan 30, 2018 · Each Black Diamond cam covers a wider range, thanks to the double axle design, but cam for cam, the Metolius cams are lighter. Clyde's Cam Chart by size The best climbing cam is going to be your best friend out there on your rock climbing adventure. Over 20 different models in endless varieties: two-, three-, and four-cam units; single-stem and U-stem cables. Production of the size 1 Dragonfly was a notable achievement as the smallest certified climbing cam. Ultralight Power Cams are the lightest 4-cam units in the world! Direct Axle Technology allows for more placement options in shallow, narrow, or bottoming placements, and makes tricky placements easier due to better cam lobe visibility. 8 vs 11. Metolius is currently the only manufacturer that publishes a usable range. 5 as those are always the sizes I'm able to place, but find myself wanting to "save them for later" due to their versatility. Based on the analysis, it is evident that the best climbing cams are those that offer a reliable and durable design, a suitable size range, and a lightweight construction. A detailed look at different sizes and models of Spring Loaded Camming Devices (cams) from different manufacturers over the years. The Ultralight Offset Master Cam shares all the same features as our Ultralight Master Cam but is a specialized design that has of two smaller lobes and two larger lobes to fit flared cracks and pin scar placements. Our testers are all very familiar with how each BD size corresponds to how their hands feel in the cracks, making it easy to select the right cam. 56 votes, 14 comments. The size 1 Dragonfly is our smallest certified climbing cam. Smooth action, a great range, and a somewhat rigid stem make these cams easy to place on the go when you're gripped. When you get a bit better and climbing harder routes then you'll tend to see the need for a couple of smaller cams in the range. 1 to 0. Includes a matching yellow carabiner. The average useable range per cam is actually larger for the ULMCs (11. Jan 30, 2018 · Free Climbing These are cams are excellent for free climbing, especially the hand and fists sizes. Size usually plays into the perception of the strength of a cam. Black diamond cam sizes are not 1:1 with inches, for instance for a 3 inch crack you’d probably place a number 4. 4 to 4, Friends offer protection in nearly any crack you’ll find out there! Our double-axle Friends have become a market benchmark for stability, versatility, and reliability. Feb 21, 2025 · When you place the best climbing cams in USA, the springs make the lobes press out on the sides of the crack, forming just enough friction to keep it in position. CNC machined for much greater precision than stamped or extruded cams. Jan 30, 2018 · Totem Cams are our favorite cams for aid climbing because of their ability to engage only two lobes at a time, allowing for an endless array of strange, body-weight-only placements, multiple clip-in points, and super narrow heads, even in the larger hand sizes. 7). Feb 2, 2018 · Subscribe to our channel for the latest training videos, climbing tutorials and more! In this video we review considerations for placing hand-sized cams. Nov 9, 2020 · The wide size range per unit means that it is easier to find the cam you need for the size placement you want it to fit into. The C3s are tri-cam units. The six cams in the range cover placements from 7. I would without hesitation say the first two cams I would double would be . Anything larger than 2” is heavier and harder to place; plus, it’s more likely that an SLCD will fit into a placement where you can get a large Tricam. Extraordinary holding power and unique capabilities with the patented Direct Loading system. If you save it for… Jul 24, 2025 · The size of the cams you need depend on the size of the crack you are climbing and need to protect. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Shop for climbing cams at Rock+Run for all your climbing equipment needs. Most of the weights are from a calibrated scale (some are from catalog specs). Many people consider 10% and 60% expansion to be a reasonable usable range for cams, but these numbers may differ from cam to cam and also depend on your risk tolerance. (Check out our Best Climbing Cams Review for a complete breakdown of the cams we tested). DMM 4CU (3CU) are identical to the size and numbering. See every brand, compare every detail, and find the best price. May 9, 2024 · Range of Sizes When looking for climbing cams, it's crucial to consider a range of sizes, as having options from small, medium, to large can help you securely place gear in a wider variety of rock cracks. Our climbing protection is the trusted industry standard and we're always improving performance. Note that in Britain when guidebooks say, for example, Friend #3, it usually refers to the old Wild-Country Technical (or Forged) Friends. Compare different climbing cams. 3 days ago · The Black Diamond C4 Camalot in size #2 is a high-quality climbing cam designed for traditional climbing safety. The home of Climbing on reddit. At first glance you might not imagine that these sizes have anything in common but that isn’t necessarily true. Dec 31, 2025 · We tested all the best climbing cams available in 2026 and, like all rock climbing gear, we found that the best piece of gear for you will Moved Permanently The document has moved here. Moved Permanently The document has moved here. I also know the size choice is very dependant to the rock, but, what are the sizes most used in trad climbing? Should i go for smaller cams first or just randomly pick one? The Black Diamond C4 cams are the industry standard for cam size and color. Wild Country Zero The DMM Dragonfly has been on the market for the past few years and has become one of the must-have micro-cams for thin cracks. 30 votes, 13 comments. Range Finder tells you at a glance if you've chosen the right size cam for the placement. 75. Where will you be climbing? The basic trad rack varies by area, but a lot of people like C4's from . Maybe someone else will benefit from it… Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. It retains its original character, with a version that has been improved in terms of performance and finishes. Cams use a spring system that presses the jaws into the sides of the rock crack to hold their position firm. Sep 6, 2013 · The smaller sizes are used mainly for aid climbing because of their diminutive slings and because they’re difficult to clean while free climbing. And yes we are scared of falling. Check out our full climbing cam review to see how these cams rank versus competitors. . A crack is usually described based on how one’s hand fits into it. Oct 17, 2025 · In conclusion, the most effective climbing cam is one that balances these factors to meet the individual needs of the climber. 6 sizes: #00/0 - #4/5 Sold individually or as full set Color-coded 13mm Monster slings and tubing Shop rock climbing protection from Black Diamond. Jan 30, 2018 · Our Analysis and Test Results DMM Dragon Cams are out to make a dent in the Black Diamond cam supremacy that seems pervasive at all American crags. This Cam Size Comparison Chart helps you compare models against one another in terms of sizing and range of use. Dec 27, 2025 · Besides, the size of the cam needs to depend on the size of the crack that you are climbing and need to protect. 1. 0" and increased by using hand jams. 5"- 3. We also have an extensive range of small and micro cams in kits or singles for thin cracks. In the most commonly used sizes, one can carry 7 ULMC cams and, even with the new C4s, save 4. The same camming angle of 13. 8mm, or . Mud, dust, water, or ice lowers the friction and can cause the cam to slide out during a fall. 4 days ago · The product is a set of 6 vintage Wild Country Friend Rock climbing quad cams in sizes 4, 4, 3, 2 1/2, 2, and 2. Aug 3, 2022 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Oct 4, 2019 · In 2015 we gave Totem Cams a glowing write-up, praising in particular their high holding power and narrow head width. 3 days ago · The Middle East and Africa Cam Climbing Device Market is divided by product type, application area, end-use industry and region. This lets dual axle cams fit more placements and have greater overlap between sizes, allowing you to carry fewer units to protect the same range of cracks. A full set is made up of four cams, from purple . Compare their sizes on cam comparison charts. Highly innovative, stemless and highly flexible camming devices from Spain with very narrow head widths. Dec 19, 2019 · Our Verdict We think the DMM Dragonfly cams are some of the best small camming devices you can buy, especially among those that largely follow the “ alien ” design. Range 0. org Open 0 0 Share Add a Comment Feb 2, 2024 · In this article, we discuss the best cam sets for trad climbing, backed by reviews from the climbing experts and the consensus of the climbing community. Seven sizes. 5 ounces (128g) over the same range. Shop for Cams at REI - Browse our extensive selection of trusted outdoor brands and high-quality recreation gear. What are rock climbing friends? Like other climbing devices such as belays, carabiners and quickdraws, harnesses, a climbing friend or cam is also an essential safety piece used for secure holds when climbing. 75 and 1 followed by 2 and . Black Diamond Camalot Ultralight Please select cams from the lefthand menu. Pretty much always in black diamond size numbers. Usable is 10% to 60% of the max range, unless a manufacturer publishes a different number. These camming devices are made of aluminum and are designed for climbing in rock formations. This review focuses on two new sizes at opposite ends of the range. Check out our great prices and latest deals! Jul 15, 2021 · With all the climbing cams on the market its difficult to know which ones to buy. Dec 19, 2019 · As such, each cam not only serves to protect its primary range, but can also protect the entire range of the next cam down, meaning that each cam can function for two different sizes, instead of just one. 75°, as used with our Dragons, provides the optimum balance of ho Apr 11, 2019 · A flexible stem makes this workhorse of a cam bomber in horizontal placements, while the ergonomic thumb loop makes them easy to place when you're pumped silly. This year we released our smallest and biggest cams ever made—the micro size Z4 #0 and now these big boys. Complement DMM Dragon Cams - size 4, 5 and 6 Dragonfly micro cams overlap with size 00 to 1 Dragons. Here are the results. Dragonfly Micro Cams provide versatile protection for narrow cracks and pockets. Find the best climbing cams from Black Diamond, DMM, Fixe, Metolius, Omega Pacific, Totem, Trango, Wild Country. A combination of categories as well as the number and range of sizes available and flexibility of the cam helped us arrive at a score for a cam’s versatility. With hand-sized cracks usually protected by cams in the range of 1. Mar 1, 2023 · This article lists five of the best climbing cams that will provide the climber with the best experience during the climb. Alien X Red The Alien X is the sixth generation of the micro cam that obtained its first patent in 1986, in Colorado (US). In general you can see that there is a lot of overlap in protection ranges between sizes. Also, the larger the cam size, the greater the protection range. 8mm – 28. Dec 9, 2015 · So if you are Leading then Size 1, 2 and 3 Black Diamond Camalots kept me good for a number of years. Apr 9, 2021 · They are sized 0. Including color coding rec May 15, 2018 · Our experts extensively reviewed and rated the Omega Pacific Link Cams based on transparent, objective criteria against similar products in the Climbing Cams category. Feb 13, 2025 · Discover the top 5 climbing cams perfect for crack climbing adventures. Available in six sizes, the new Alien X features the following improvements: Cams with X-grip texture: Improves the grip of the cams during the first times it is Shop rock climbing protection from Black Diamond. Size (mm) 140 160 Feb 25, 2015 · Individual cams come in a huge range of sizes, from micro-sized cams that fit the tinniest 1/4”-sized fissures of rock, to 6”, 7”, even 8”-sized off-width/chimney-sized cracks. 3 mm. For your reference, Clyde's Climbing Cam Charts is the most complete table I know, which includes the cams that are not made or sold any more. Dual axle design for expanded range Dual axle cams have a greater expansion range than single axle designs, allowing them to fit a greater range of crack sizes. 5-3, and Master Cams or Aliens for smaller sizes. 100% Satisfaction Guarantee And, to fuel conversation: what are your favourite cams, and why? Do you prefer FCUs or TCUs for your small cams? I know in Squamish (or at least, amongst my friends), the most common rack is a set (or doubles) of Camalot C4 size 0. With great overlap between ranges and a full size set from 0. Featuring light sculpted lobes and our innovative trigger keeper for compact racking with sizes #4-#8. The greatest overlap in ranges is biased towards the smaller protection sizes. Yes, get a set of nuts.

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